Five years ago I spent four months in Viet Nam in an education abroad program. Only now, five years later, certain experiences begin to leave an impression on me. But this has always been my modus operandi. I see life through the eyes of nostalgia. At the time what stood out to me were my experiences of the land, rather than the people. Toward the people, I felt angry because I had expected so much to belong. I was shocked that I was not one of them (even though I was born there and lived there for 11 years). I was shocked to find out, that really, I was an ignorant American.
Though naive and full of illusions, I had one positive American quality that helped me immerse: I was willing and open to trying something new. I was probably one of the few students there who actually got to know the locals. Short of cash, I took a job to teach English. It was a struck of luck because I ended up at an illustrious engineering firm teaching English to the top students of Ha Noi. But in a way it was unlucky, because in front of these intelligent and avid learners, I was shamefully incapable of passing on any bit of knowledge they didn’t already know (they knew more about the English language than I did even though I majored in English). At least they were amused to hear my Californian accent.
Instead of making a laughing stock out of me, roll their eyes at me, and stop attending class all together, behaviors which I expected (being all too familiar with American students), they invited me to hang out. A group of them, who I think are the richer students in the class because they drove fancy mopeds and had an easy air of confidence about them, took me to go fishing in a resort-like village. It’s a high class past-time. We weren’t fishing for a meal, but just for the hell of it. Of course, we didn’t catch a thing with our flimsy-looking bamboo sticks, but we did have great conversations (in English). They even tried to teach me to drive a moped, though it was yet another incident that revealed my incompetence. That thing was surprisingly heavy. I could barely hold it up so I clutched onto the hand accelerator. The moped bolted forward and I flew straight into the bushes in front of me, fell off, and inadvertently dropped my wallet, which I didn’t even realize I had lost until 30 minutes after we were well on our way back to the city. The group had to back track so I could retrieve my wallet.
I thought that would be the gossip of the class for the rest of the summer and they would never take me out again, unless it was to have another good laugh (at me). But no, they only got more inspired to show me around (and I mean with complete genuine interest, not sarcastically, and not mean-spiritedly). This time, we went to a famous temple on an island.
It was jam packed with people from all over streaming into the temple like it was a mecca. Everyone had in their hands incense, fruits, and flowers to make offerings and pray for good fortune. The temple itself was extremely small and was mostly modest except for the life-size golden statue of Buddha and the golden basin that held hundreds of burning incense. Incense perfumed the air in that strange scent not of flowers or fruits, but a difficult-to-place spice both subtle and sharp. I was carried away in that foggy air, surrounded by a sea of murmuring hope. A student suddenly grabbed my arm. “Let’s eat.”
They led me out of the temple and into the crowded vendor-lined street. Restaurants there were famous for snails. Those chewy little mollusks were the best thing I’ve ever tasted in Viet Nam. We had a feast of snails cooked in all sorts of styles. My favorite was plain boiled snails that you suck out of the shell and dip in a spicy, ginger sauce.
At the end of the meal, it was time to pick up the check and I was ready to pounce. This was mine. Only, when I reached for my wallet, I had the crushing realization that I didn’t have any cash. I shamefully consented when the students politely offered to split the bill. By now, I had stop expecting their malice and began to appreciate their genuine kindness, but this only heightened my embarrassment for my own inadequacy.
When the class ended, the students presented me with gifts of books about Vietnamese culture. They seemed to have taken it upon themselves to make me at home in their land, to help educate me of their traditions and customs, and to show me why they are proud of their nationality. I had never felt so estranged from my own people and at the time I was filled with disillusionment about who I had become. At my age, they were so many times more mature. They were the ones who were teaching me.
One student, who had a boyish crush on me, after the class ended, invited me to go get ice cream. I agreed to it as I had previously agreed to other outtings, not realizing he was asking me out on a date. He was not one of the rich kids, and it was apparent when he showed up at my dorm on a bicycle.
Where was I to sit? He offered the handlebar. In that manner, me on the handlebar, he swerving this way and that, we painstakingly snaked our way into the city. Every onlooker seemed to melt at the spectacle of us, because it evoked nostalgia for their youthful days. A boy slaving to balance the bicycle handles on which his amused sweetheart precariously perched was the epitome of romance.
We arrived at the ice cream shop and I offered to pay. We fought over the bill for awhile until the shop owner saw the money I pulled out. They laughed. “$500,000 dong? Don’t you have any smaller bill? We can’t break that.” Again, I relinquished to being paid for. He was of course, thrilled, because that was the official sign: it was a date.
He wore a proud smile when he left. However, he didn’t pursue any further and we didn’t see each other again after that. But by leaving things the way they were, no more and no less, he was able to keep his bubble intact. He seemed content for having just that one small moment, even knowing full well I probably didn’t have a clue of his intention and didn’t perceive it as he did. Looking back, it was a wise thing to do. Too often, in our greed, we destroy a moment by extending it.
People in Viet Nam are not all like the students I met. Many were much more gritty, much less innocent and kind. Those students stood out of course because they were the top of their class. But what was admirable was that they embraced their position of upper echelon with none of the impatient rebelliousness, the haughty sense of accomplishment, the pretentious entitlement, or the condescension which accompanied almost every American high school student I knew. Being the best to them was not associated with popularity or even grades.
Before meeting them, I couldn’t even imagine that world, which though often represented in books with painful regret, were to me either dead and long gone or probably idealized beyond reality. The real world I live in is cynical and cold. Then I met them, the dinosaurs of the past, the stuff of stories, and I didn’t even recognize it at first. Afterwards, I was mostly left with a sense of inadequacy. Who knows what the foggy air of nostalgia has blurred after five years. But as the memory of them sink into me, I know I am one of them because I can recognize it at last, that casual air of innocence.